Britney spears in style

Britney spears in style

Rock Climbing Ropes

When you're life is on the line, literally trusting a rope in rock climbing helps. It is important to know about rock climbing ropes. Based on the climbing technique and rope system one prefers, one can choose the appropriate type of rope to be used. Two basic types of rope are the dynamic and static ropes. Dynamic rope provides maximum stretch of the rope to minimize and absorb the impact of a fall. Often used in standard rock climbing techniques, dynamic ropes are more subjected to wear and tear. Static rope is in contrast with dynamic rope. It is designed not to stretch, thus used in rappelling.

Types of Rock Climbing Ropes:

Single Ropes

Singles rock climbing ropes vary in length (although standard is approximately 10.5mm x 50m), and generally has a width size of 9.5mm to 11mm. One should not be discouraged with this type of rope because it is thinner. In some cases, a climb will require a lighter rope such as with subsequent lowering or rappelling.

Twin Ropes

Twin rock climbing ropes are basically two separate ropes of the same size, designed to put together through each piece of gear. They use thin ropes, about 7.6mm each. Often used in ultra-long rock, ice, or mixed routes, twin ropes provide light-weight gear used in such expeditions. Twin ropes offer the highest safety margin and full length rappels.

Half or Double Ropes

In contrast with twin ropes, half or double rock climbing ropes use two separate ropes of the same size, but clipped independently into pieces of gear. It is thicker than twin ropes, averaging 8.8mm in width, to compensate if the other rope fails to hold a fall. The security using half or double ropes is preferred by climbers taking on long and dangerous traverses, and razor sharp rocks. A belay method enables independent control of each rope used.

Rock climbing ropes follow a standard set by the International Union of Alpine Associations based on its fall ratings. Fall ratings measure the number of falls which the rope can handle. It is also possible for you to test your rope. In a single rope test, 80kg of weight is attached to 2.5 meter rope, and the weight will be dropped to 4.8 meters. Half rope test is made by attaching 55kg of weight to a 2.5 meter rope, dropping the weight to 4.8 meters.

ALANGE,SPAIN

Alange,spain.Not the biggest crag in the world but worth a look if you are in the area.
The views are great,the rock is fantastic,there are 130 routes and all are bolted.
Accom,There are hotels that are walking distance and at 20e pp, well worth it.
We where there in october but in the summer months how inviteing is that lake.
Sun set on a great days climbing in Alange,Spain

Spray-A-Thon and Rifle wrap

Well, Rifle was terrific.

Check your ego at the door and prepare to be humbled. That's the approach that works best. If you send - woohoo. If you fail - good training! :)

Highlights of my two week trip are as follows (I've gone with the euro grades as, after all, this is sport climbing):

Spray-A-Thon 8a+ - 5th shot (super steep with one tough crux. My first grade 30 on foreign soil.)
The Anti-Phil 8a - 4th shot (gently overhanging with brutal campus-snatching around a low roof)
The Beast 7c+ - 4th shot (slipperiest rock on the planet?)
Pump-O-Rama 7c+ - 2nd shot (just like Mt Coolum in Australia. Technical kneebars not an issue :)
Beer Run 7c+ - 3rd shot (my fave in Rifle, varied and amazing)
The Blocky Horror Show 7c - 3rd shot (stepped roofs, then hugging headwall)
Hang Em High 7b+ - onsight ("proud onsight dude!" pumped off my dial)
Pretty Hate Machine 7b+ - 2nd shot (slippery steep route)
Easy Skankin 7b - onsight (best sport 12b in USA they reckon!)

And here's some pics of me doing Spray-A-Thon on my final day. Big pressure!


Getting set up for the dyno. Off the right hand undercling, you jump for that hole. Very cool move.


Clipping in the crack section.


Double kneebars (sort-of) before the first bulge. I figured out some great beta for this bulge that even the locals now use. Energy conservation is all about using momentum!



The crux move! Might not look much, but you're reaching left hand for a hold known as the "pencil". But I reckon a pencil would be a better edge.

So thanks Rifle, you were great. I love you.

All pics © Jason Huston 2010

ALGARVE BOULDERING

The algarve is known for the sea cliffs at sagres and the sport routes at pena but not many people know of the bouldering area know as scary movie.

Lindsay Lohan Spends Sunday at a Homeless Shelter

Despite the brutally hot weather in L.A. over the weekend, Lohan, 24, arrived in a flannel shirt and long boots that covered up her alcohol-monitoring anklet. She spent the afternoon doing charity work at the center, and was joined by her mother Dina, sister Ali, manager Lou Taylor and friend Eilat Anschel.
After getting good news on Friday that sprung her from jail, Lindsay Lohan did a good deed on Sunday, visiting the Dream Center, a homeless shelter in Los Angeles.

Despite the brutally hot weather in L.A. over the weekend, Lohan, 24, arrived in a flannel shirt and long boots that covered up her alcohol-monitoring anklet. She spent the afternoon doing charity work at the center, and was joined by her mother Dina, sister Ali, manager Lou Taylor and friend Eilat Anschel.
Lohan later Tweeted: "What a great place The Dream Center is here in L.A. ... had a nice time there today, it's so important to give back. I feel blessed."

The actress was released just before midnight from a Lynwood, Calif., jail after spending less than 14 hours behind bars and posting $300,000 bail. She is accused of violating probation in a DUI case by failing a mandatory drug test.
She is also expected to return to rehab in the coming days. Her next court date is Oct. 22.

MORE NEWS
Taylor Swift is reportedly being considered to replace Lindsay Lohan in one of her upcoming movies, the romantic comedy "One Night With You."

Swift, who has appeared in movies like "Hannah Montana: The Movie," "Jonas Brothers: The 3D Concert Experience" and "Valentine's Day," could take over the female lead in the flick about a starlet who joins a reality dating show in an attempt to save her career. But, as in most romantic comedies, things don't go as planned when instead she falls for a bartender who happens to hate all things Hollywood. A love/hate relationship ensues between the two.

"It appears the romantic comedy may finally be off the table for Lindsay Lohan. The producers had actually talked to Taylor Swift's agent a few months back about replacing Lindsay, but Taylor was in the middle of her tour," a source said, according to WENN. "Now that Lindsay can't conquer her troubles, they're taking the offer back to Taylor."

Swift's film rep had not responded to MTV News by press time about the report. But Swift stated earlier this year that her focus was on her music, not making movies. Her new album, Speak Now, is due out in October.

"I'm not making movies right now. I'm making music. That's always been my number-one love," Swift said back in June. "It's been so cool to be able to be a part of things that have been really fun, like being in 'Valentine's Day' and getting to guest-star in 'CSI.' I feel like I get to do these little mini-movies when I make music videos, so that kind of fulfills that little need or desire. But if I ever get time, I might like to [act again]."

Regardless of her current status on "One Night With You," Swift was recently seen sporting a basketball uniform, which she reportedly wore for a part in "Todd vs. High School," co-starring Jason Segal.

Lohan, meanwhile, is still onboard to star in the Linda Lovelace biopic "Inferno," despite repeated delays in filming caused by the actress' ongoing legal troubles.

Bristol Palin takes Dancing` partner home to Alaska

Although Bristol Palin describes herself as just an ordinary girl, Palin has become a celebrity underdog now that she’s on Dancing with the Stars. With Bristol Palin gaining support from fans of DWTS, former contestant Kelly Osbourne recently revealed that she's rooting for Bristol to win Dancing with the Stars.
Sarah Palin's oldest daughter -- and red hot cha cha dancer -- arrived at Rumrunners in Anchorage with her "Dancing with the Stars" pro partner Mark Ballas and an ABC camera crew in tow, and was greeted by "a pretty big gaggle of friends," according to an eyewitness.
Bristol Palin has shown her Dancing With The Stars partner Mark Ballas some of the sites of Alaska as they filmed a segment for the reality series in her home state.
Back in her home state to film a segment for the hit dance competition, the 19-year-old wore jeans and a zip-up sweatshirt and "seemed excited," according to an onlooker. "She hugged everyone when they came in and introduced Mark to everyone. She looked really good, actually, and happy."

A sign marked "Palin family" sparked curiosity, but neither Sarah nor Todd Palin attended the event.
According to an onlooker 19-year-old Palin, 'hugged everyone when they came in and introduced Mark to everyone. She looked really good, actually, and happy.'

While Ballas was in the state, he met the state's former Governor and Bristol's Mum Sarah Palin, People reports.
'Me and Mama Palin,' he Tweeted, posting a photo of himself and the former Vice-Presidential nominee. 'Alaska is awesome.'
And while Ballas and Palin took a turn on the dance floor, Ballas pleased his partner when he took the stage to belt out a few tunes. Says the observer: "Bristol cheered the loudest after he finished each song."
While in Alaska, the two-time Dancing champ also had a chance to take in the sights and meet one of the state's most famous residents, Bristol's mom Sarah.
Kelly Osbourne admitted that she empathizes with Bristol Palin, especially since Palin doesn't have family support in the audience. "I have a real soft spot for Bristol Palin. I really do," said the daughter of Ozzy Osbourne. "I think she's going out there and trying. And to not have a family member in the audience is the hardest thing in the world. Half of that show is family support, and to go out there that first week and not have anyone there, and having everybody looking at you the most – I give her so much credit."
In a recent interview on The Ellen DeGeneres Show, former Dancing with the Stars competitor Kelly Osbourne revealed that she’s rooting for Bristol Palin, who is in the same underdog position that Kelly was in during season nine of DWTS.

Brazilian Supermodel Adriana Lima

Another addition to the list of hottest and sexiest supermodels is the pride of Brazil - the 26-year old Adriana Lima, who is best known for her modeling work with Victoria's Secret and Maybelline. With that gorgeous face and body and an oozing sex appeal, who would believe that this girl who models skimpy clothes and undies is actually as conservative as she can be.

Yes, the sexy and pretty Brazilian supermodel actually admitted in a 2006 interview with GQ that she is still a virgin. "Sex is for after marriage. They have to respect that this is my choice. If there's no respect, that means they don't want me." After that interview, she was dubbed as "The World's Most Voluptuous Virgin".

Lima first graced Victoria's Secret Fashion Show in 1999 and has appeared on subsequent shows and several television ads for the brand. She is also a spokesperson for cosmetic giant Maybelline. Currently, she is the world's fourth highest paid supermodel.

Indeed, this pretty girl is definitely too hot to handle. Awarded as "Hottest Girl on Planet" at the first Spike TV Guys' Choice Awards, she was also voted as one of the Most Desirable Women for three consecutive years (2005, 2006, 2007) by visitors of the largest men's lifestyle website, Askmen.com. In 2007, she ranked 7th on FHM's 100 Sexiest Women and was also chosen as one of People's Magazine's annual 100 Most Beautiful People in the World. Definitely, Adriana Lima is a thing of beauty and the desire and fancy of the male population.